Wrapping It Up, Big Bang Style
But back to the question…how to handle T-minus 15 days? I suppose there is the conventional approach to “au revoir France”…one that involves consuming multiple daily doses of espresso, 1664, and champagne, packing in culinary favorites like foie gras, steak frites, and duck leg confit by the pound, shedding buckets of tears at the illuminated Seine, committing final financial blunders at Le Bon Marché and Monoprix, and of course, succumbing to lazy naps in the Luxembourg gardens in the mid-summer sun.
And trust me, there was a fair amount of that conventional-ness in July. But if you’ve been following the last three months of escapades surrounding the PBL (Paris Bucket List), you’ll know that we didn’t stick to purely well-reasoned tactics. Like my hair after 7 shampoo-less nights, there was bound to be some unpredictability. And funk. And glitz. And sizzle.
“I know…but what does that grand finale look like?” I asked Shannon weeks before, urging her to explain her vision of the ultimate departure.
She closed her eyes in deep reflection. I knew I was in trouble when she started with “I see a big bang…but not just any big bang. The biggest fireworks display Paris has seen in 75 years.”
“Uh-huh.” I said, scrambling for my notepad…not quite sure where she would go next. The vision that followed not only rendered me speechless, but completely redefined my understanding of a stress-filled repatriation process.
”I see…breakfasts on cliff-top terraces…walks along red-roofed village ramparts…sun-drenched island towns in the sparkling Adriatic…sunsets that add new colors to the palette of life…meals shared among quaint forest pavilions…succulent yet familiar flavors of Italy…a seat at a table that we can always call home…warm embraces from our favorite people in all of France…the silhouette of cat on empty 17th century polished hardwoods…a sea of humanity celebrating in triumph…our boldest dreams coming true…and finally…yes, I see it now….matching flip-flops in beautifully manicured Paris gardens, complete a with an honorary Husky-colored floral motif…”
”Baby, open your eyes” I said, pointing out the latest addition to Luxembourg’s summer offerings at her feet. “You mean like that Husky-colored floral motif?”
“Yes… like that. I suppose we’re off to a good start.”
Croatia – No Necktie Required
It was fitting that the vast majority of these references (e.g., village ramparts, sparkling Adriatic) reflected the one major destination remaining on the PBL – Croatia, birthplace of the modern-day necktie. This being the slightly ironic part of visiting Croatia in the summer – they will have plenty of neckties to sell you to commemorate this fact, but you’ll never need one. Quite the opposite, you’ll need your favorite t-shirt, a swimsuit, your sunglasses…and yes, your flip flops.
What Croatia lacks in formality, it makes up in shimmering southern European beauty (it is, after all, across the pond from Italy). And nothing shows that more noticeably than Dubrovnik, Croatia’s southern jewel on the Dalmatian Coast:
There were many times on the Croatia excursion that felt like we were on the set of the recently-produced Mamma Mia movie – high rocky cliffs overlooking sandy beaches and clear blue waters…and plenty of locals to take advantage of nature’s blessings…
We found this vantage point particularly appropriate for fulfilling Shannon’s prophecy of “breakfasts on cliff-top terraces”…
As for the “walks along red-roofed village ramparts,” it is hard to imagine a more satisfying stroll along city walls than in Dubrovnik. On one side, you get aerial perspectives of the city dwellers and tourists…
And on the other side, you get coastal views…
Along your walk, you may catch your wife peacefully admiring the nearby islands….
Or catch yourself admiring the amount of sweat collecting on your brow…
The more sweat you collect, of course, the better the view becomes of the rooftops and domes, many of which have been replaced since war struck Croatia in the early 1990s.
I’ve taken some life’s inspiration and guidance from Bill Gates in my day, but mostly on the topics of work and software. Not on nightlife. So, imagine my skepticism when we heard about a bar in Dubrovnik that Bill supposedly likes to frequent. Accessible literally through a large hole in the village wall…
Well shame on me for doubting, because what Bill has discovered, perched along the cliff side, known simply as “Cold Drinks”, is quite possibly the coolest hangout in Dubrovnik. Especially when you can kick back and enjoy a summer sunset.
And especially when you are serenaded by the gentle music of a 5-piece, mustache-sporting ensemble…
Well, I am a big believer in a reciprocal relationship – and when I receive a worthy recommendation for world-class nightlife, I can’t help but giving back. So Bill Gates, if you are reading le blog of Rue Cassette like I think you are, I urge you to head to the nearby island town of Korcula, just two short hours from Dubrovnik at hydrofoil speed. There, you will find that people wear bright-shiny smiles…
There is plenty of waterfront room in the harbor to anchor that massive vessel you travel in…
And you, the lover of exclusive nightlife with unparalleled natural beauty – will find a little spot there called “Massimo.” Where you can climb a steep ladder to the top of an old castle turret…
where you can enjoy city views and a drinks delivered through a pulley system along the castle walls…
And yes (because I know this is a requirement), one of the most stunning sunsets in the Adriatic. P.S. Don’t forget the little people.
And speaking of little people, hear is another tip, this time for all of us. Heading to the island of Hvar, in my humble opinion, is probably the best idea in Eastern Europe. Yes, I said it. Why little people? Because when you are overlooking the glitzy harbor of Hvar town from the fortress above, people look little. Boats do, too…
Heck, even hefty guys like your spouse can look little when viewed from the other side of the fortress.
So calling it the best idea in Eastern Europe is pretty bold, I know. But I’m hoping a couple of Hvar snapshots will get you on the same page. Like the harbor itself, lined with great restaurants and happy boaters…
Beach clubs that re-define “lunch on the waterfront”….
And crazy people that defy the rules of “waiting 30 minutes after lunch on the waterfront”….
Architecture of classic elegance…and if the rooftop looks good enough to dine on…
Then it could be all yours!
As for the evening social activities, if you found it in Dubrovnik and Korcula…you’ll also find it in Hvar. I think now it is safe to say that I liked this place.
But all of these stops on The Croatian Experience 2009 had been in small (even dinky at times) towns. We had to ask ourselves – could this level of tranquility be experienced in a big city, like Split (population: 200,000)? The answer, 2 hours after arrival in Split….is yes.
The answer, after 7 hours in Split…was double-yes.
Can someone please explain to me what the deal is with Croatia and sunsets? I guess the only way to describe this picture (besides cool): “a sunset that adds new colors to the palette of life”….
Split’s main drag is about as pedestrian-friendly (and therefore people-watching friendly) as it gets. Pick a spot along the palms, enjoy the passer-bys….
Watch the promenade fill up gradually as the action gets started, but before its too late – grab a table for dinner.
If it feels anything like this, chances are you’ll like Croatia.
Every Goodbye is a Sad, Sad Song
The only problem of not spending a good chunk of your final “goodbye Paris” days, well…in Paris…is that the real goodbyes are going to come hard, and fast. That goes for the restaurants, the people, the city views…the general goodness.
But a vision had been given…a prophecy which was still only partially fulfilled. To say a proper goodbye to the culinary world of enchantment (and to celebrate our 6th wedding anniversary), it was only appropriate to find some type of “meal shared among quaint forest pavilions”. At at the Grande Cascade nestled in the Bois de Boulogne on the edge of Paris, we found just that spot.
I’ve had some mesmerizing dining experiences, but none yet that have come with a foot stool exclusively placed at our table…to hold Shannon’s handbag (partially pictured). Yes…the concept of service at Paris restaurants does exist…you just have to dine in places that resemble The Secret Garden to get it.
And we could almost get used to it…
As for the savoring the “succulent yet familiar flavors of Italy”, I knew this one could be achieved in less than 5 blocks from our dear Rue Cassette – at a place that is as dear to our hearts as it is to our stomachs: Pizzeria Positano on Rue des Canettes.
It’s simply put, a double-whammy. This establishment not only serves up **the best pizza on earth** (period)…
But my favorite dessert in all of Paris! Behold the classically-prepared millefeuille…
As for taking “a seat at a table that we can always call home”…while it wasn’t hard to figure out, this one was a little harder to do. No table in Paris logged the type of Rue Cassette hours as our front-row home base at Cafe du Metro…from early morning espresso, to mandatory mid-afternoon breaks, to late night bites. From greeting our family and friends, to French lessons, to a deep talk between two. From a quiet winter morning respite to a jam-packed summer evening concert venue. This is..THE **finest cafe that Paris has to offer** (period.)…and to us it is home.
And quite frankly, if you can give me a better use of 10 EUR in the entire city of Paris than this order represented below…I’ll eat my menu.
So where do we get these embraces from “our favorite people in all of France? Well, clearly it starts with the team at Cafe du Metro…from day 1 they treated a couple of lost Americans…like family. If you want to blow away your stereotypes of poor treatment of foreigners inside bustling cafes…introduce yourself to Emilie. She is an angel of France and added a friendly smile to most of our days!
And if you want to meet another one of France’s finest (and maybe even learn some French while doing so)…meet my French prof, Denis. He’s not only the one responsible for patiently (an understatement) getting my language skills to a tolerable level…but is just an awesome friend. And while it is only my personal opinion on the best pizza / dessert / cafe in Paris…All language-deficient Microsoftees agree with me on Denis!
Rue Cassette: Packing Up & Heading Out
Denis was one of the personal support systems required for the what can only be described as “the day the truck arrived”…
The moving truck being the more standard component of an international move. The 5 story external, extendable elevator (with the associated blocking off of the entire street) being a more…Paris-specific component of a move. Hard to be emotional when this process is so death-defying…and cool.
In four short hours, our Paris livelihood was boxed….
And shipped out, ready for the waters of the Atlantic…
Leaving some of us in the family…almost too aware that something was profoundly different…
And giving us one last look at “the silhouette of cat on empty 17th century polished hardwoods”…
It appeared to me shortly thereafter, while taking Ole’s identification photo for the France Cat Passport, that experience wasn’t the only thing he had gained in France…
This particular box was the last one to go. It being a medium-size dog Kennel. For a cat with an extra-large heart.
We said goodbye to Rue Cassette, from every window. It was hard, because we loved this home.
Okay we just made it though the low point. So I’m going to keep going on to happier thoughts…our final night. Which was about as “Big Bang” style as you can possibly imagine. A fabulous party under the shadows of our dearest Eify…
Generously hosted by no strangers to our time in Paris…David and Jeannette. David was there to recruit me to Microsoft, to show us the prospect of the city of Paris long before we moved, introduced us to the 6th arrondissement, was there at my side (very literally in the office!) at La Defense…how fitting that they could give the goodbyes! Another special thank you David and Jeannette!!!
As for the entertainment, it couldn’t get much better than experiencing a flawless, unobstructed view of the “biggest fireworks display Paris has seen in 75 years!”…(almost seemed to good to be coincidental?). To give you an idea of just how big this show was, I offer you an accelerated version of the Bastille Day 2009 fireworks show as this month’s integrated video experience….
And a less professional (but equally powerful) view captured by ma femme:
With that type of explosive energy, you would almost expect to witness “a sea of humanity celebrating in triumph”….well interestingly enough, that was the case (and if you’ve every been to see Eify on July 14th, back me up)…
“All this just for us?” Thanks guys..
Merci et Bon Voyage!
I guess in the end, you could say that three years in Paris was about as close as you can get to “our boldest dreams coming true”. And that wouldn’t have been possible without so many people and so many things….so I say to them….
-Merci to the loyal readers of le blog!!!
-Merci to our families, not only for visiting, but helping us get our home at Rue Cassette up and running (from lights-on to Ole-proofed)…
-Merci to all of those friends that made the cross-Atlantic voyage, and stress tested the AeroBed…a special Merci beaucoup to those who came back!
-Merci to Microsoft (this should be self-explanatory!!)
-Merci to our friends of the quartier – Team Cafe du Metro, Team Boulangerie du Rennes, Team Pizza Positano, Team Monoprix, and the Bio Marche Latkes Guy
-Merci to les amis that got us through – the ISP ladies, the EMEA Microsoftees, the Alliance Francaise grads, and many in-between!
-Merci to Denis and Petit Nicolas!
-Merci to Velib, Eify, and Pont des Arts!
-And most importantly, Merci to Paris – you beautiful city of bliss!
Loyal Readers: Note that while official Paris blogging is over – stay tuned on the Rue Cassette home page for our recommended “Best of” lists coming soon– restaurants, cafes, hotels, and too good to be true experiences!
Vive Le Blog!
While there\’s a lot of heart in Le Blog, I must say that I always felt that the entries were a little under-produced and hastily thrown together…JK, Uncle Lars!!
I\’m giving up Bordeaux for a month in honor of the final Paris blog entry.