Living the Paris Summer Dream…No, Really this time.
Ah….Summer in Paris. She is a season full of surprises, I tell you. Just when I boldly claim to the loyal readers of Rue Cassette to have mastered the art of living summer life in last month’s blog, I figure out that in fact – there is oh là là, much, much more. So much that I now think of summer life in Paris like my newest favorite dessert Mille-feuille (translation: thousand sheets)… a delicate masterpiece made up of layer after layer of crispy pastry and vanilla bean custard filling. And like those layers, such are the days of summer here – each new favorite activity discovered adding another symbolic, crispy yet delightful layer to the the meal that is…our lives. OK, that was pretty bad. And given the blistering summer heat, maybe a crème brûlée metaphor would have been more appropriate. But you just wait until the next time you hear someone in Paris use the timeless expression: "Like layers on a mille-feuille…So are the days of our Summer Lives"…
And therefore, in addition to the three key ingredients described last month (for the picture-looking-only types, those were 1) cat-napping in Luxembourg, 2) Biking with Velib, and 3) Sunset walks), I would like to add a few more "layers" that have helped me to positively reflect on a season I will now refer to as the 2008 été de rêves (aka Summer of Dreams).
#1 – Old Monument, New Tricks
The first is a sight that I can now confirm…after 22 straight months of consistent exposure…will never get old. This is a sight that on a good week, I see 4 or 5 times…yet it never gets old. This is a sight that arguably has the title of the most touristy, most viewed icon on the planet…yet it never gets old. This, simply put, is the power of Eify. So why does it never get old? Partly because, on the right days, the backdrop alone has the power to knock a man’s croissant out of his hand (and I’m not sure the two second rule applies in France). And at sunset, illuminated with sunbeams poking through the clouds…it’s easy to see why…
The other reason that it never gets old is because the resident "Director of Illumination" for the Eiffel Tower Company seems to have limitless motivation and creativity (and one would think perhaps a corresponding limitless budget). This guy just has a knack for keeping the pulse on the current events of the city, and altering the lighting motif accordingly. Many of you may recall the Roosevelt-Roughrider-esque Green and Gold two-tiered illumination that was created in honor of the world rugby championships hosted in Paris last year. Well, in honor of France holding the rotating presidency of the European Union (EU), Eify is now sporting a striking blue illuminated glaze…complete with the EU gold stars. If 300-meters of blue and gold doesn’t proclaim commitment to Europe, I don’t know what does…
#2 – Summer Concerts at Bercy
The next experience is something that I can confirm, after 7 years of straight listening…will never get old. You see, concerts in general are good…and usually summer concerts are even better. But there were two additional factors about Jack Johnson’s show in Paris that made this one extra special for us, and therefore added another layer to my already towering metaphorical mille-feuille (no, it’s not the shared last name). The first one is that there is just something special about seeing one of your favorite artists slowly but surely "grow into" new venues as their music career progresses. We saw him in Seattle about 6 years ago at a venue with capacity for about 1,000 people…and to see him now at Paris Bercy with the walls jam-packed in a venue that approaches 20,000…now that is growth to be proud of (and frankly, growth we would all like to see Microsoft’s stock price)…
The other factor is just the very unique and humbling experience that comes with watching one of your fellow countrymen perform in a large venue abroad. You think that being a devoted fan, and furthermore one that speaks the same native language (not to mention, also being from the "West Side")…will give you an edge up vs. the locals. You think you’re going to be the only one understanding the rarely played songs, singing along the words…in other words, you think you are special. Well, I’m here to tell you – you are not. These European fans can sing it better than you can, and they know more about your favorite artist than you ever will…and during the concerts you will find out how true that statement really is. And therefore this month’s integrated video experience is exactly that – the Frenchies showing me how much better they can celebrate the beloved Jack Johnson better than us..
#3 – "Le Pique-Nique" and Sharing Cheese with Those You Love
Let’s face it, the Paris picnic is hard to screw up. You grab a 2 Euro bottle of wine, your head phones featuring that classic Frank Sinatra tune, plop yourself down on the Champs de Mars -and voila…that’s not a half-bad evening. Lonely…but not half bad. However, if you add a couple of very, very special factors…you can turn this summer experience into la creme de la creme of your Paris memories. And when you are building mille-feuille, nobody ever objects to a little creme….
I would like to say that the first factor is "good friends"…but honestly, it has to be more specific. There is really no substitute for Dave & Treva Totten (aka "Tottses", "Tottskis", "Francesco et Diva", "Half of the word-class team known as FC Italy", etc…), who were first introduced to le blog during their infamous visit of February 2007. ‘Totts’ is the type of friend that, despite having a piece of large furniture dropped on his middle toe during the last visit (with an ER bill as large as the pain)- returns to Paris for more thrill-seeking adventure and good times. That is dedication my friends….and dedication pays off. Here they are, just in time for the picnic to start…
Another factor is a serious spread. Unfortunately I have to be very specific again about what qualifies as "serious." It is simply the following: a selection of four cheeses from Barthélemy, proscuitto-wrapped melon, goat-cheese and tomato tart, Spanish tortilla, and of course…a bottle of your favorite vintage of Chateauneuf du Pape…
Finally, please do not forget the person you love the most. Not only would it lead to massive over-eating of the spread as described previously, but it would also leave you hurting without quite possibly the single-most important post-dinner item…and that is a good lap to lie in. And without a lap you just may end up like that lady in the background with the white dress…with a lot of awkward and uncomfortable adjustments..
#4 – A Parisian Standard of Casual Personal Presentation
I once did a presentation and paper at Duke on "the 5 distinct forms of business casual dress code" – which was a reminder to seniors entering the workforce that the subtleties of personal presentation at work can be major contributing factor in career success. Please don’t ask my sister-in-law Krysia, who was also in the class, and therefore the recipient of that presentation (and fashion show) what she thought of my teachings. That isn’t the point of this particular segment. The point is that, in this "REI fleece should be good enough" day and age, I always have a particular appreciation for the individuals…as well as the communities that rally-around a certain standard of classy, refined casual wear. You know – the people that shave once in while, apply some make-up if necessary, maybe some pin-stripes, sparkles or glitter on the outfit – we’re talking basically about a minimum standard of effort here! Call this a small gripe, but honestly..Seattle-ites, would it kill you to save your trail-hiking shoes and Eddie Bauer jacket…for the trail? And NOT, our finest restaurants? Look – I’m the first to defend my favorite article of clothing, which for those who know me well, is a 1980s green down puffy vest with a Rainier Beer pin. But there is a time and a place for that – namely, one well-known, comfortable community bar on Phinney Ridge where some of my friends have their names engraved on the wall (nice work, Demetri!).
If you want to know what keeping this standard looks like – come to Paris, sit down at a cafe, and just watch. It’s all around. It’s in the young, it’s in the old, the men and the women- it’s simply…some effort, that transforms this big city into a world-class epi-center and fashion combined with professionalism. It’s in the pet store, it’s on the way to the gym…and it’s certainly coming to a nice restaurant near you. Now I don’t know who taught Shannon and Treva to follow that lead…but I can tell you it’s working!
As for Dave and myself…nothing spruces up a Rue Cassette happy hour like a high-quality dinner jacket. In my presentation, this look I would refer to as "Cocktail Casual"….(Easy on the smile, Totts. This look is easy to overdo..)
And while we are at it, at least for family dinners – would it kill us to coordinate shirt colors? Results are joyous…albeit a bit feminin…
#5 – Three Hours or Less to More Mind-blowing Adventures
Sometimes I get so caught up in the coolness of the French capital that I neglect to describe one of it’s most fundamental advantages…which is the ease of travel to the rest of Europe - and if you’re lucky, the ability to reach your destination within 3 hours or less. Well let’s just say in the month of July, we, alongside the Tottens, pretty much exploited the living daylights out of that advantage.
How did this series of journeys come about? Well, basically it came from a basic question that I couldn’t answer. When the Tottens were planning their European summer, they wanted some counsel about their proposed itinerary – and asked simply "Which is better – France, Italy, or Spain?" Sounds simple enough, but the answer, I re-assure you…is not simple. France naturally, our country of residence – would have an immediate advantage for obvious reasons. We’ve seen more of it, we have pride in it, we love it, etc. But then there was Italy…oh, sweet Italia. Images of Sicily from the October 2007 blog came flooding back in my mind, the picture perfect breakfast terrace overlooking the Mediterranean…And Spain! Don’t even get me started on my feelings for the beaches of San Sebastien, Ronda, and many other delightful locations in España…
Alas, the question was complex, but getting to the bottom of it was simple. They are all worthy…and therefore, we chose…all of the above. My plea for the readers: The ultimate fate of the answer "Which European country is better?" actually lies within your hands, the loyal readers of le blog to decide – after carefully evaluating your own perceptions and experiences, as well as what seems like an Ikea catalog’s worth of our pictures from July 2008. After reading the blog, all you need to do is "Add a comment" at the bottom of this months’s blog, and say "I choose {insert country name}". Trust me, you’ll feel better knowing you weighed in on this important quest for the truth…
One more important note before we get started with the barrage of photographic visual overload. There have been a very few times in the history of le blog that I actually shut up and let the pictures do the talking. These are the trips that my commentary actually cheapens the sacred-nature of these memories. The following three sections – Alfmafi Coast (Italy), Burgundy (France), and Andalusia (Spain) – all meet that standard. You will see some basic trip facts, and photo captions that serve as "titles on the work of art that is traveling"…but very limited amounts of my obnoxious banter. SO enough already, let the best country win!
Candidate #1 – Italy
Region Selected: Costa Almafitana (Almafi Coast)
Known Best For: Breathtaking Scenery, Good Grub
Locations Visited: Napoli, Sorrento, Positano, Capri, Alfmafi, Ravello, Pompeii
Trip Duration: 6 nights
Travelers: Famiglia Johnson, Famiglia Totten
Mode of Transport: EasyJet, Ford Fiesta Hatchback
"Welcome to Napoli, the Land of More Vespas than People (P.S., try not to get hit by one)" credit. S. Johnson
"Antica Pizzeria da Michele – Boasting ‘The Best Pizza in the World’, and the only thing worth doing in Naples before leaving" credit. S. Johnson
"First Taste of Italy, Nice Face Totten" credit da Michele waiter who brought gifts of Pizza and Birre
"Mount Vesuvius, Still within Striking Distance of Napoli" credit S. Johnson
"Us within Striking Distance of Happy Hour" credit S. Johnson
"Pompeii – from thriving Roman city, to burial under 30 feet of hot volcanic ash" credit S. Johnson
"Passionate Archeologists taking a beating from 100+ degrees without cover. Morale is low. " credit S. Johnson
"Sorrento – We’ll stay outside of town to admire your fine landscape" credit S. Johnson
"The Pool at Hotel Minerva – One Part Swimming, One Part City Viewing…Two Parts Snack Bar al Fresco" credit S. Johnson
"The formula of Italia – Due Prosseco, Due Nazzuro Azzuro, con Vista Bella " credit S. Johnson
"Nighttime walk to Sorrento’s Marina Grande" credit S. Johnson
"Dinner at Trattoria da Emilia is for lovers" credit D. Totten
"Capri – Rocks, Yachts, Hollywood Stars, and Generally Not Affordable" credit S. Johnson
"Grottos of Capri, Yes they are worth seeing credit S. Johnson
"Limoncello Ladies of Capri, Beautiful as the Mediterranean Sea" credit D. Totten
"All Caprese are not created Equal" credit L. Johnson
"Dearest Antipasti – I MISS YOU." credit L. Johnson
"Famiglia Johnson without Ole, yet Surprisingly OK with it" credit D. Totten
"Amalfi Coast Roads – beautiful but equally death-defying" credit S. Johnson
"Tottens’ Romantic Flower-Gazing Stroll in 13th Century Villa Rufolo" credit L. Johnson
"Concert Hall Backdrop in Ravello – That’s what I call a Nosebleed section" credit L. Johnson
"Room for 2 more…who’s interested?" credit L. Johnson
"The Terrace at Hotel Marincanto in Positano" credit S. Johnson
"What Friends do at The Terrace at Hotel Marincanto in Positano" credit T. Totten
"A Bird’s Eye View of The Terrace at Hotel Marincanto in Positano" credit L. Johnson
"Pondering What We Would Do, If We Were to Leave The Terrace at Hotel Marincanto in Positano" credit S. Johnson
"What We Did, When We Left The Terrace at Hotel Marincanto in Positano" credit L. Johnson
"My Favorite City in Italy, with My Favorite Wife" credit L. Johnson
"No Title Required" credit S. Johnson
"No Title Required, Part Due" credit S. Johnson
"Defending our Ladies from Overly Charming Italian Waiters is not easy on Nights Like This"
credit La Sponda at Le Sirenuse waiter in Positano
"The Elusive Italian Coffee Cocktail Discovered – Behold the Shakerato" credit L. Johnson
"See that village in the mountains? We’re hiking there." credit L. Johnson
"So that’s why you see lemons decorating every piece of dinnerware" credit S. Johnson
"This hike calls for the international sign of Hard Core…and a liter of water" credit S. Johnson
"We’re almost there…no, honestly" credit L. Johnson
"Priceless Reward for a Long (and Sweaty) Journey" credit L. Johnson
"Italy…You’ve Been Multo Fabuloso!" credit L. Johnson
Candidate #2: France
Region Selected: Bourgogne (Burgundy)
Known Best For: Birthplace of Pinot Noir, Finest and most coveted wines in the world, French Haut-Cuisine, Rustic Villages
Locations Visited: Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Savigny-les-Beaune, Aloxe-Corton, many more…
Trip Duration: 2 nights
Travelers: Famille Johnson, Famille Totten
Mode of Transport: Toyota Corolla
"Nothing challenging about le chateau de Challenges" credit S. Johnson
"Not a Burgundy Postcard…But Could Be…" credit S. Johnson
"Casually Ignoring the ‘No Mohawks Allowed’ Sign…" credit S. Johnson
"Shannon preparing to do some damage at the Saturday market in Beaune" credit L. Johnson
"This ought to pair nicely with Grand Cru Burgundy…" credit S. Johnson
"Why Look at the Vineyards, when you can Drive Through Them" credit S. Johnson
"Wine tasting at the Marché aux Vins…Not to be mistaken for being in jail" credit D. Totten
"Intense Enological Studies in Pommard" credit S. Johnson
"We Found These Two Hiding Behind the Barrels" credit S. Johnson
Surprise Candidate #3: Spain!
Region Selected: Andalucia (Andalusia)
Known Best For: Tapas, Bullfights, Flamenco,and Palatial Gardens
Locations Visited: Sevilla
Trip Duration: 2 nights
Travelers: The only couple that was celebrating their 5-year anniversary!
Mode of Transport: Air France, then by Foot
"Behold Sevilla…The Former Stomping Grounds of an un-named Parisian UW Grad…" credit S. Johnson
"La Giralda – Symbol of Sevilla" credit S. Johnson
"The New Sevilla Tram – Guaranteed more effective than the Seattle Monorail and S.L.U.T. combined…" credit S. Johnson
"Paying Respects to her Alma Mater…La Universidad de Sevilla" credit L. Johnson
"A Queen on the Checkerboard, aka my wife at Plaza de España" credit L. Johnson
"The Alcázar – Once a Residence for Royalty, Now a Playground for Spanish" credit S. Johnson
"The look we were never able to fully achieve…in our garden at Maple Leaf" credit L. Johnson
"Barrio Santa Cruz – Quite Possibly the Coolest Neighborhood in the Spain" credit S. Johnson
"The Un-assuming Epicenter of Tapas-Style Eating: Bodega Santa Cruz" credit S. Johnson
"Jamon Serrano: Looks Bad, Tastes GOOD." credit S. Johnson
"The 4 Tasting Sounds of Sevilla:
1)Oh my Tapas
2) You Yummy Churros
3) Wow Wow Paella
4) Ay-Ay Gaspacho!"
credit S. Johnson / L. Johnson (are you picking up a theme here?)
"Cinco Años of practice…makes perfect" credit waiter in Barrio Santa Cruz
The Power of the Loyal Readers of Rue Cassette
The evidence has now been laid out – and the answer to the question "Which country is best – France, Italy, or Spain?" is now in the hands of the Loyal RC Readers. Simply "Add a Comment" right below this next picture, and weigh in. While you are doing that, we’ll keep making memories for the next version of le blog…and considering this posting is 30 days late, you may just find that next version coming sooner than you think!
"#5!!!" credit camera self-timer
I\’m going to have to go with France, even though the French suck.
Deutschland, baby. Bring on der Wiesn.
We\’re going to have to go with Italy just for the shear beauty of the pictures and the coastal towns. Not that we don\’t totally enjoy France!